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Value Of 1994 Toyota Corolla Resource
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Value Of 1994 Toyota Corolla Resource in Q&A
Does anyone know about the 1994 Toyota Corolla GXi,i.e spec,technical data or even power output - preformance? The car i'm asking about is a limited edition model,it has the 1.8 16v EFi engine,factory lowered and stiffened suspension,factory fitted bodykit.Now according to almost everyone,Toyota inc except for the the odd enthusiasts websites there is no such model. I know there are other GXi's out there so there are bound to be folk who know something of it's history - i mean is it an homologation special or a dealership model to clear the backlog ?? What is it's general value ?? 0-60 or bhp and torque ?? Please can anyone tell me the score,please !!!

Smurf replied: "Check out their site"

EvelynThe ModifiedDog. replied: "Toyota Corolla 1.8 Gxi, 1994 model 3 dr hatchback, 1762cc, 118bhp, 124mph, 9.5 sec. 0-60 Is all March 1994's Top Gear has to say about it. As for the value, God knows, if it's in decent condition, maybe £1000?"

Should I buy a 1995 Toyota Corolla DX (80K) for $3400 or 1994 Honda Civix EX (125K) for $3000.? I am planning to buy a used car. I can not decide wether I should buy a 1995 Toyota Corolla DX (80K) for $3400 or 1994 Honda Civix EX (125K) for $3000. Both cars are in good condition. Honda KBB value $3490-$3100-$2605 Toyota KBB value $3685-$3050-$2630. I think both the cars have a good price. But my problem is, I want to buy a car which will go for another 30-40K without any major problems. If you have an old Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic of similar mileage or year please give me some advice from your experience. Honda Civix EX 125,000 miles Toyota Corolla DX 80,000 miles

xyzlmnop_tx replied: "Both cars have reputations as good cars. I have had Toyotas before and have never had any really serious problems with them. However, what are the relative mileages of the two vehicles? If they are significantly different, I would pick the one with the lower miles. Hondas have good reputations also, but I have no personal experience with them. You might hire a mechanic or get a friend who is handy with cars to look at both vehicles and see if he detects any major issues with either one. Reliability is always my number one concern with any vehicle, but particularly with a used one."

jbscooby99999 replied: "i had an old 85 corolla and it sux! it was slow and had problems and i had an 91 LX civic and was great until my sis crashed it in to an other car so I guess this is a bi-est answer saying Honda"

rex_rrracefab replied: "Toyota is the car I would go with. Honda is a good car, but more mileage and the Civics have been noted for being abused or raced. The Toy is newer with lower milage and designed to to 300k miles with little care."

jcreech30 replied: "Go to do a maint. compar. on both. We are looking to buy and this is our new bible to find out what prob.s have been found, any recalls etc."

djshank2006 replied: "I would go with the civic for many reasons. First the EX is almost the top trim level available. The SI is more expensive but it is more performance oriented. The EX should be fully loaded for the time (1994). I have a 2000 civic ex and it has power windows, locks, sunroof and keyless entry as well as a cd player. And all that stuff comes stock. So the 94 ex should be pretty well equipt.I am not positive but i believe the corolla dx is one of the lower trim packages available. Therefore expect things like; roll up windows, manual locks, no sunroof, etc. One of the main reasons that sold me on buying my civic was the fact that you can add a LOT of aftermarket parts to it to increase power, handling, looks. The civic has more aftermarket parts available than the mustang. The year of civic your looking at (1994) is a fine choice for tuning if thats what you wanna do. The corolla is not. Although it does have cool parts for it available, too bad the car is far from cool. I mean the civic is no sports car, but its head and shoulders above the corolla. Hey 300,000 units sold a year cant be wrong!!! Dont worry about the mileage too much, they both should be able to hit 250,000 miles, easily. Just make sure that the brakes are good and the clutch still has some life in it (for a manual tranny) and see how good the tires are. Other than that you shouldnt have to worry about the engine, its solid. If you have the extra cash you might want to have the owner allow you to take it to your mechanic to get it looked over for any hidden problems. Should run ya about $50 bucks or so... Hope this helps."

What is the value I can sell this car for ?? hello, what can this car be sold for please help, thanks!! 1994 Toyota corolla dx model Automatic 100,000k miles AC Power windows/power doors the car does have some peeling paint on one side but it al runs good besides that, what can we ask for it?? Thanks!! the dealers near me are asking around $3000 for the same car exactly, and the KBB says 2250 for poor condition....thanks!!!

Missga9443 replied: "The KBB value is the value that you should sell the vehicle for dealer price quotes are always more than a private seller. But if you wanna try 3000 go for it."

andrea replied: "I checked NADA and the value is 3300.00 but being that you have paint damage, I would say 3000.00 as well no less than 2800.00."

N replied: "KBB is LOW for most all older imports. Black book is the best guide but CONDITION is everything. Many people with average cars think their cars are super clean. Some people with super clean cars think theirs are average. Bottom line is online pricing guides have limited value to most people who don't know the car market in their area. What I would do is take your car by carmax and 3-4 other places that sell cars similar to yours. Ask for CASH OFFERS. They will ask what you want. Tell them its going to be sold to the highest bidder after you go to 4 places. You want 4 cash offers because they could vary. Anyway, the highest of the 4 is REAL WHOLESALE. From there, you want to look at black book wholesale values and determine which category your is. Rough, average or clean. Again, its not easy and many people are flat out wrong which is why I want you to get cash offers. Now, while you told the dealers you were going to sell it to the highest bidder, DONT ! That's just to help you figure out what to ask for it at the start. Here are black books figures for a 95 model as they don't go back to 94. There shouldn't be more than $100 difference at wholesale because condition is way more important than year. Clean $1795 , $3325 Avg $1495 , $2750 Rough $535, $1600 See how much CONDITION matters ? The higher prices are retail, the lower trade in or wholesale. These values are higher than KBB but much more accurate. Now, your goal should be somewhere between wholesale and retail. So lets say you've decided that your car is halfway between average and clean. And then make your own figures for the midpoint. Midpoint between average and clean is $1645 and $3037. Your goal should be $2341. You can figure it the same way if your is between average and rough. You will almost never get retail for your car. Only new car dealers with warranty's get that. Bottom line is you want to make $400-800 above your cars REAL value. And the best way to know its real value is to take it by 4-5 dealers who sell similar cars and ask for a CASH OFFER, that it will be sold today. (Tell them all they are the first place you have been and you wont be back if their offer isn't the highest, otherwise they will all say come see me after you get your best offer and you will get nowhere. Here are the conditions...Average....Body is very clean with only a few minor scratches, no dents and no rust. Interior is very clean with very little noticeable wear. Mileage less than 15,000 miles per year. Clean....No body scratches, dents, rust or other signs of wear. Interior is perfect. Very low mileage. Very few vehicles quality for Clean when a vehicle is traded in. Rough....Body is very rough with many scratches, dents, rust or hail damage. Interior is dirty and shows excessive wear. Mechanically needs work. High mileage. -------- Look at it like a business. The highest offer is your "cost" and anything above that is your profit. Less any expenses. You should be able to make $400-900 anyway. But it may take a month or two. Don't negotiate on the phone, EVER. Only negotiate with a CASH BUYER, someone who is ready to buy and who has made you and honest offer that you wont accept. Even if you would accept it, ask for more. Dont waste time with people that want to ask your lowest price before coming to see it. Tell them to come see it and then you will talk. Dont waste your time with repeat emails or shipping scams. Your car has very low mileage. That's worth more than KBB gives it credit for. In my area, cars under $3000 bring more than KBB private party values on a regular at DEALER ONLY auctions. Yet, everyone with a computer thinks KBB is some kind of god. Their figures are LOW so that dealers can steal your trade in and you think you are getting fair value. Thats why its FREE and dealers PAY for a new black book every week. You get what you pay for when it comes to car values. ---- The poster above thinks KBB prices are high. I bet he or she hasnt bought & sold hundreds of cars over 15+ years like I have"

jackson5 replied: "You can get 2700 without problems."

how to really determine a cars value to sell by owner? Hi, I need to determine the value of a car to sell it by owner but the KBB and others have a big difference in price? what can I go by and also when I did try to place an add I put the bottom line price I wanted to accept which is $500 less than the KBB, but I found most people want to bargain, so do I raise the price to get what I want instead? Thanks!! PS. This is for a 1994 toyota corolla dx model Automatic w/ 100,000 k miles Thanks for your help!!!! I know why is there so a big difference in price with the blue book values? Thanks!!

chucksright replied: "it's worth around $700 to $1,000 a dealership would charge $1,400 KBB prices are high, go here for a more accurate price: list it for more than you want and haggle down."

N replied: "KBB is LOW for most all older imports. Black book is the best guide but CONDITION is everything. Many people with average cars think their cars are super clean. Some people with super clean cars think theirs are average. Bottom line is online pricing guides have limited value to most people who don't know the car market in their area. What I would do is take your car by carmax and 3-4 other places that sell cars similar to yours. Ask for CASH OFFERS. They will ask what you want. Tell them its going to be sold to the highest bidder after you go to 4 places. You want 4 cash offers because they could vary. Anyway, the highest of the 4 is REAL WHOLESALE. From there, you want to look at black book wholesale values and determine which category your is. Rough, average or clean. Again, its not easy and many people are flat out wrong which is why I want you to get cash offers. Now, while you told the dealers you were going to sell it to the highest bidder, DONT ! That's just to help you figure out what to ask for it at the start. Here are black books figures for a 95 model as they don't go back to 94. There shouldn't be more than $100 difference at wholesale because condition is way more important than year. Clean $1795 , $3325 Avg $1495 , $2750 Rough $535, $1600 See how much CONDITION matters ? The higher prices are retail, the lower trade in or wholesale. These values are higher than KBB but much more accurate. Now, your goal should be somewhere between wholesale and retail. So lets say you've decided that your car is halfway between average and clean. And then make your own figures for the midpoint. Midpoint between average and clean is $1645 and $3037. Your goal should be $2341. You can figure it the same way if your is between average and rough. You will almost never get retail for your car. Only new car dealers with warranty's get that. Bottom line is you want to make $400-800 above your cars REAL value. And the best way to know its real value is to take it by 4-5 dealers who sell similar cars and ask for a CASH OFFER, that it will be sold today. (Tell them all they are the first place you have been and you wont be back if their offer isn't the highest, otherwise they will all say come see me after you get your best offer and you will get nowhere. Here are the conditions...Average....Body is very clean with only a few minor scratches, no dents and no rust. Interior is very clean with very little noticeable wear. Mileage less than 15,000 miles per year. Clean....No body scratches, dents, rust or other signs of wear. Interior is perfect. Very low mileage. Very few vehicles quality for Clean when a vehicle is traded in. Rough....Body is very rough with many scratches, dents, rust or hail damage. Interior is dirty and shows excessive wear. Mechanically needs work. High mileage. -------- Look at it like a business. The highest offer is your "cost" and anything above that is your profit. Less any expenses. You should be able to make $400-900 anyway. But it may take a month or two. Don't negotiate on the phone, EVER. Only negotiate with a CASH BUYER, someone who is ready to buy and who has made you and honest offer that you wont accept. Even if you would accept it, ask for more. Dont waste time with people that want to ask your lowest price before coming to see it. Tell them to come see it and then you will talk. Dont waste your time with repeat emails or shipping scams. Your car has very low mileage. That's worth more than KBB gives it credit for. In my area, cars under $3000 bring more than KBB private party values on a regular at DEALER ONLY auctions. Yet, everyone with a computer thinks KBB is some kind of god. Their figures are LOW so that dealers can steal your trade in and you think you are getting fair value. Thats why its FREE and dealers PAY for a new black book every week. You get what you pay for when it comes to car values. ---- The poster above thinks KBB prices are high. I bet he or she hasnt bought & sold hundreds of cars over 15+ years like I have."

euroman71 replied: "Go to autotrader.com and type in your car and your zip code and you'll see how much similar cars are listed for. Good luck"

robert j replied: "Edmond's? many people want to use Edmond's to price a car. But here is the problem. Has anyone ever seen an Edmond's dealer? Of course not. They do not exist. Edmond's is a great WEBSITE for researching vehicles, getting facts about a car, cost to own, and problems people have had including positive feedback. But anyone here can simply type"problems with a 1994 Toyota corolla dx , and find the same thing. Thus, it's Kelly Blue book as the NADA book requires a subscription as it is used by dealers and the prices are set by dealers. If you see one "laying around", lose it for them. Summation: KBB is not the Bible for car prices buy it's used as one. The condition of the car, past work receipts, and no major accidents reported to CAR FAX all fit into the price of a car. BTW, CAR FAX is not accurate either. I wrecked my pick up and to date has not shown on CAR FAX. Then I wrecked a car. Minor damage, but CAR FAX listed it as a MAJOR damage car. Go figure."

Jamie replied: "for an accurate estimate just go to kellybluebook.com type in all the info and it wil give you what its worth"

I am looking at updating to a mazda 3 maxx sport hatch? Hi my name is megan and i am currently looking at updating my toyota corolla 1994 model to a mazda 3 mazz sport. wht do u think my corolla would be valued at if it has done 250,000km and is in good condition. What do u think of a mazda 3 place ur opinions to me i think it is a really good car. Place ur thoughts and let me know

loving30 replied: "go to redbook.com.au for value on your corolla. i would just go for the plain model 3, not any 'sport' models - the sport models usually don't hold their value any better than the base model. also, good idea to check the insurance costs on the new car before you commit to it."

What Toyota would be better? First, please don't tell me not to go with either since they have high miles and are older cars....i'm a full time student, and it's what I can afford. I will never again do the scam of car loans either. So my debate being, I have two toyotas. one I must sell, one I have to continue to drive for awhile. With about a monthly trip as well (approx. 260 miles one way). One is a 1990 Toyota Corolla. Good condition, 182,000 miles, I dont know the condition of the timing belt, but i have already had the altenator and battery changed. The other car is a 1994 Toyota Celica ST. Also good condition, some body damage but doesnt affect the running of the car. 192,000 miles, and has had standard things replaced. I realise based off kbb.com values, even with higher miles, the celica is worth more, but I just want the one that would last longer, or be more reliable. What do you think? What else should I check on each car before making my decision?

goosecrossing replied: "i like the celica...but whichever you need more...celica is more on the sports car side...corolla is more practical...so if u got kids and a family...id go with corolla...if you are single and out every night...celica..."

randall flag replied: "a cellica is less of a piece of junk than a corolla.. i would not want a Toyota"

ccgriffin1972 replied: "Keep the Celica."

yes_its_me replied: "The Corolla is the longevity champ with well maintained ones out there with 300,000 miles on them. As with any mechanical device, they break, and repairs can be costly. I would choose the Corolla also because of lower costs involved in parts prices and it is the lighter of the two cars which equates to less tire and fuel costs. Sell the Celica ST and spend the money getting the Corolla fixed up. The 4AFE Corolla engine uses a non interference timing setup so that if the belt breaks there won't be any engine damage, This is why there is no timing belt change interval recommended. However to be safe on your long distance trip, I would recommend changing it."

Kangkung - 133 replied: "toyota camry."

val_aka_pebbles replied: "personally I loved my celica. It was reliable, good gas mileage, and made me look hot driving it! lol definately the celica. if both cars are basically equally the same, then go for the looks of the car and the celica wins!! these sites should be very helpful "

Scotty replied: "You should get a Toyota Yaris or Corolla."

ftic_99 replied: "Stay with the corolla. with gas prices spiking againg it uses less fuel, less expensive to repair, less milleage. But change the timing belt ASAP it is the life of the engine. Also you may want to get rid of the one with auto tranny since they tend to fail sooner and are more expensive to repair. If both are automatic then go with corolla."

1st time car buyer. I need help with options.? I have found a 2004 maixma se for 11995, pumpkin color, leather int, navigation, etc the catch is 139000 miles if I go through the dealer I have to purchase the extend warranty which I want. It covers the motor, transmission and differential. I have bad crdt last time I checked it was 570 in dec. My 1994 Toyota Corolla engine died on me with 254,000 miles two days ago and I need another car soon. I have a son and I go to school and work. I have never had a car note. All my cars have been brought right out. I like the above car but is it worth it I know thats alot of miles for the year but Kelly Blue Book says value is 14,250 even with the miles. Will I be okay since the warranty covers those major things (what is diffential?). Even if I look for something else can I dont really know what I am suppose to be looking for in a used car, blah, blah,etc. I have 2000 to put down. Any helpful advice. okay wear and tear clause I would never looked for that.Thanks okay so this extended warranty thing aint all its cracked up to be and I wanted to add that the car is at a small dealership.

P W replied: "on a Nissan the miles aren't as important it is known to have reliable motors. the warranty is bullshit. everything on the car can be written of as "wear and tear" damage on a vehicle with that many miles. look very close before you buy that warranty if it has a wear and tear clause don't get it. Other than that just keep up with the maintenance.and you may get 250,000 miles out of this one too."

Jesse replied: "We have had an extended warrenty and they would not cover anything, we had to fax in the warrenty and get a lawyer. On the loan I would get a quote from here first: the dealer most likely will not give you a better deal, just see what options you have for loans. Personally if you do not have a lot of money, try out ebay for places close to you and or yahoo autos. Most of those you can call a warrenty place to get a warrenty on the car. Like I said I did not have luck with extented warranties. Make sure you can take the car to a shop to check out the car, I sears will do a check for free or some other places might. Most people will let you go take the car to someone to look at. Then also you can run a carfax, but if the person does not take the car to a shop to get fixed or have it filed it will not show up. There is no super safe way to go, but there are all the things you can do to try to get something great. The kellybluebook value does not mean much, I have gotten cars for half the value with no issues, but I had a lot of time to get a car. There are also no perfect cars out there, which Nissan has some recall issues and they will still charge you to fix them although they where governement recalls which Nissan is suppose to pay for. Personally I have come out better from going with auctions then my friends with dealerships."

Jason K replied: "heres what you look for. make sure it doesn't burn oil. make sure transmission shifts without problems. also make sure engine doesn't make loud noises or doesn't do anything "strange""

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